Weed Smarter

I suppose some will claim that there is a meditative quality to weeding the garden. I can't deny that if you're pulling a mass of shallow-rooted weeds like ragweed, it can be very satisfying. You get in "the zone" and your body goes on autopilot while your mind wanders to memories, meal-planning or worrying about whatever problems you're facing. For some, weeding is their prayer time. That's all very fine, if it's your thing. It's not mine.

Most of the foliage in the background is weeds. Some of the foliage in the rest of the photo is weeds too.

I find there are a lot of weeds (and grasses, and plants that are just in the wrong place) that are very challenging to pull out of the ground, no matter how loose the soil is, or how recently it has rained. Some weeds are just very well-anchored. Others are thorny, and some have runners that are nearly as strong as wire. While there are some weeds that pulling is either the best or only option, I don't think pulling is always the best way to control weeds.

Consider that by pulling out the weeds and disturbing the soil, you will probably make conditions just right for other dormant weed seeds in that soil to germinate, bringing forth more weeds. Now, if you are a diligent weeder (I am so very much not a diligent weeder, see the photo above) you can keep pulling out the baby weeds until the weed seed bank in your soil is exhausted. But remember the old saying "1 year's weeds (left to grow), 7 year's seeds". That's a pretty long battle to fight.

Ask yourself, is it necessary? Yes, some weeds are invasive, toxic, strangle out plants or damage structures, and they need to go. No question about that. But others are just unsightly( dandelions) but harmless. And some might do more good than harm if left in the ground (clover).

What can you do instead of endlessly pulling weeds?

Chop

Some weeds, like pokeweed and burdock, have a very deep taproot. Those can be difficult to pull up, and sometimes the weed will still grow back from the part of the root that is left in the soil. Plus, by disturbing the soil when you pull the weed out, you could be causing the freshly disturbed soil to dry out. Your back and your hands will thank you if you just cut those back to the ground and move on. Yes, the root may sprout new growth, in which case, you'll have to chop it back again later. But it might just die and rot down, feeding the soil and your garden. If your garden is on a slope, the root mass that you leave in the ground can help hold the soil in place, too.

Organic Mulch

By "organic" I mean materials that were once alive. Laying down a layer or two of cardboard (which was once a tree) and wood chips, straw, dry grass clippings or pine needles (or whatever source of dry organic matter is free or cheap in your area) blocks sunlight from the surface of the soil. Most seeds need light, water and warmth to germinate. Take away any one, and they won't germinate. Plus, as the mulch breaks down over time, you'll also be adding organic matter to the soil.

Of course, mulch isn't maintenance-free, but it is a once or twice-a-year project rather than a daily maintenance chore. Some weeds will still sprout up, but they will be far fewer, and since mulch also helps to keep the soil moist and attracts worms that aerate the soil, those weeds should be much easier to pull. Or just chop them to the ground and add them to the mulch.

Silage Tarps

Like mulch, black plastic will block light from reaching the soil. If you lay silage tarp over the soil where you want to start a new garden bed, or after you harvest your garden in the fall, it will prevent weeds from germinating between harvest and your next planting season. To be effective, it should be set in place as soon as you are finished harvesting your garden, and left in place until you are ready to plant. You'll need sandbags, landscape timbers or some other weight to secure the edges of the tarp firmly in place. This stuff is really durable (it doesn't turn into a million shredded strings after a couple of years) and can be used for many years if you take care of it.

*Can it leach into the soil? Depends on who you ask, but since it's UV resistant, I tend to think it's one of the less worrisome plastics. You should absolutely do your own research and make up your own mind. I am not a chemical engineer.

I prefer this method for growing tomatoes, peppers and other crops that produce a lot of food on one plant. It's not the most ideal for growing row crops. If you want to learn more about using a silage tarp to suppress weeds, check out Herrick Kimball or JM Fortier.

Clear Plastic Sheeting

This method is called "solarization" and it works kind of opposite to the silage tarp. Rather than blocking light, it lets light through. The weed seeds underneath may be encouraged to germinate, but as the sunlight heats the soil, the plastic traps the heat and kills the weeds, seeds and some soil pests like nematodes. To be effective, this needs to be done when it's hot summer, and the soil needs to be moist before applying the plastic sheeting. Also, it will need to be kept in place for several weeks. And of course, the sheeting must be secured at the edges to trap the heat and so that the wind doesn't take it.

Kitchen Sink Concoctions

I've tried a few homemade weed killer recipes, and I have to say I'm totally unimpressed. They either don't work, take forever to work, or worked so well that any over-spray would damage or kill the plants I was trying to grow. For these and other reasons, I don't use conventional weed killers either.

Research Before Planting

Some grasses that make a very fine lawn (like Bermuda) are a nightmare to keep out of your vegetable garden and flower beds. If you have a choice, don't plant them to begin with. Some ornamental trees (like Bradford Pear), vines (morning glory) and flowers can also be invasive. Likewise, some herbs (mint, lemon balm), while tasty and fragrant, can get out of hand quickly. If you research before planting, you can put them in containers rather than into your landscape. Those same herbs should probably not be allowed to bloom either, as the wind will spread their seeds far and wide. That doesn't mean you shouldn't grow them, just be careful how and where you grow them.

Please note: I've included affiliate links to tools and products in this article, and if you make a purchase from those links, I'll receive some compensation. And I"ll be very appreciative of it. However, if you can find a local small business or tool-maker to purchase from, they'll be even more appreciative of your business.